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22 Night
Driving (23) Making
Tires (24) Brass
Chassis (25)
Switching Scales (26) Routed
HO (27) Rails
Installed (28) Oval
Action (29)
New
1/32 Beginning (30) Construction
(31) Routing
(32) Painting
and Taping
(33) Power Taps
and Timing
(34)
Up and Running (35) Scenery
(36) More Slot
Racing (37)
Power supplies are homemade. They offer the ability to reverse direction,
turn off dynamic braking and constantly monitor
the available voltage. They took some effort to build and then having to
make three of them was a real pain. But it's worth it. One
change I recommend is to avoid the 3mm or 1/4-inch stereo jacks I used.
I have since changed to the alligator clips and three barss posts (screws).
They are more durable during the life of your track.
The controllers are 3-wire Parmas (Scalextric wiring) with two of them modified with a home made tuning box. The box allows you to add ohms to the controller and has a bypass button and a second dial to set the level of bypass. They can be added to any controller. I use both 45 and 25 ohm controllers on this layout.
Almost all slot cars "benefit" from some form of tuning or modification. I modify most Fly-brand cars to solid front axles (3/32 piano wire) and try to cut the extra length of shaft off the sidewinder motors (the amount past the pinion gear). Lead weight will be mandatory on most cars since there is no magnet action to help with downforce.