Welcome to my world
1/32 Scale Slot Racing
STRICTLY FOR THE LOVE OF CARS!

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Page 19 Page 20 Page 21 Page 22 Night Driving (23) Making Tires (24) Brass Chassis (25)
Switching Scales (26)
Routed HO (27) Rails Installed (28) Oval Action (29)
New 1/32 Beginning (30) Construction (31) Routing (32) Painting and Taping (33) Power Taps and Timing (34)
Up and Running (35) Scenery (36) More Slot Racing (37)









Page 1 Page 2 Page 3 Page 4 Page 5 Page 6 Page 7 Page 8 Page 9
Page 10 Page 11 Page 12 Page 13 Page 14 Page 15 Page 16 Page 17 Page 18
Page 19 Page 20 Page 21 Page 22 Night Driving (23) Making Tires (24) Brass Chassis (25)
Switching Scales (26)
Routed HO (27) Rails Installed (28) Oval Action (29)
New 1/32 Beginning (30) Construction (31) Routing (32) Painting and Taping (33) Power Taps and Timing (34)
Up and Running (35) Scenery (36) More Slot Racing (37)

Power supplies are homemade. They offer the ability to reverse direction, turn off dynamic braking and constantly monitor
the available voltage. They took some effort to build and then having to make three of them was a real pain. But it's worth it. One change I recommend is to avoid the 3mm or 1/4-inch stereo jacks I used. I have since changed to the alligator clips and three barss posts (screws). They are more durable during the life of your track.

The controllers are 3-wire Parmas (Scalextric wiring) with two of them modified with a home made tuning box. The box allows you to add ohms to the controller and has a bypass button and a second dial to set the level of bypass. They can be added to any controller. I use both 45 and 25 ohm controllers on this layout.

Almost all slot cars "benefit" from some form of tuning or modification. I modify most Fly-brand cars to solid front axles (3/32 piano wire) and try to cut the extra length of shaft off the sidewinder motors (the amount past the pinion gear). Lead weight will be mandatory on most cars since there is no magnet action to help with downforce.

All Images Copyright Michael Nyberg 2005
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